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Mount LHAKPA RI (7,045m/23,000ft) is one the major mountaineering destination in Tibet. . It is very close to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to be climbed Mount Everest the moment.
It was first climbed by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken Mc Connell in 1991. Still the present expedition mountaineers teams are following the same route in order to make the summit.
It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world. It’s an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route.
The summit view from Lhakpa Ri rivals that from many of the world's greatest mountains. It gives very unusual views of some of the world's best known mountains and excellent views of some very little known mountains. Amongst the highlights are the Nyonno Ri range in eastern Tibet, the north face of Chomolonzo and the north faces of Makalu and Pethangtse. You can also see the beautiful and little known peak of Shartse and the frightening Kangshung (east) face of Everest and the magnificent east face of Lhotse. There is an unrivalled view of the north east ridge of Everest, the North Col, Changtse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. You also have a chance to grasp the immensity of the Tibetan plateau as you can see hundreds of miles across the wildest of landscapes.
The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals.
There are two major way to start the Expedition, the one way, you must fly to beautiful & traditional city Lhasa & another way you must drive from KTM via Zangmu/Nylam, tingry & base camp(5200m). The visit to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers. After reaching at the base camp, you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. In order to start your real climbing toward the summit, you should start your expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Then you have to take a night’s rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m. From ABC. After couple of days rest, acclimatize at ABC and sherpas can fixed up the ropes to wards to North Col. The route is initially straight forward trail up moraine to the East Rongbuk which leads to the fixed ropes and it takes 6-7 hours to reach at the North Col from ABC. North Col which is also called camp I of Mt Everest expedition is large area from where we can see the fantastic views of North Ridge of Mt Everest, Mt Cho Oyu and other mountains. Once we complete climbing to the North Col, we descent to the ABC & take rest for couple of days getting preparation for another attempt to Mt Lhakpa Ri. Start early in the morning; and you should go continue crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach at the very foot of the slope, leading to you to the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20 –30 degrees vertical elevations. This route to climb is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. You have use main rope with the group of 4-6 climbers at this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on the other side you see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. |
